Direct from Le Metier de Beaute Makeup Director Mikey Castillo - The breakdown of Georgina Chapman's (of Marchesa) Oscar look!
The Makeup Look and Technique...
I wanted Georgina's makeup to look resplendent in the afternoon of the California sun, so I used the Le Metier de Beaute, "Peau Vierge Tint", in shade #3, to give the complexion radiance, as well as additional color. Georgina is actually a shade #1, but she prefers a more tanned complexion. Next, I also used LMDB "Classic Finish Foundation" in shade #9 to provide a more glamorous coverage, and also boost Georgina's tan.
Helpful hint: Sometimes full-coverage foundation can appear flat, so I always use the "Peau Vierge Tint" as a primer to give the complexion a radiant glow, allowing the full-coverage makeup to appear dimensional, and more like real skin. It always makes the skin look even more beautiful!
As a moist base to apply eyeshadow, I used the LMDB Dualistic Eye Pencil in shimmering "Tamarack", all over the eyelid, from lashline to eye-bridge, as well as extending the pencil out from the eye for a more fanciful, winged appearance. I then used my domed LMDB "Crease" brush to diffuse the pigment that I had just layed down on the eye. This brush's sole purpose is to evaporate pigment and make the bronze hue of the pencil appear smoky and soft, with no hard edges.
Now that the pencil base has outlined where I am to deposit the eyeshadow, I begin tacking on the color. Using the "Flat Eyeliner" Brush, I apply each hue in the four tiered "Northern Lights" Kaleidoscope, in descending order. Pressing the brush in to the first shade, a satin finished nylon-stocking hue, I reverse the brush upside down on the eye, so that all the pigment will be deposited on the very base of the eye, closest to the eye lashes. I make certain to place the pigment in a balanced fashion from the inner corner to the outer, to elongate the eye. When this is finished, I feather the remaining pigment on the brush upward until the color has evaporated beyond the bridge of the eye, not quite reaching the eyebrow. The second tier of color in the Kaleidoscope, a satin-finish pale blue, the third, an effervescent terracotta, and the final, a matte black-violet, are all applied subsequently in the same fashion. As the name of the application technique implies, "Couches des Couleur", the contrasting pigments are layered to give the eye a smoldering, dimensional appearance. The technique is easy to apply, but provides a prismatic complexity to the eye that utterly eliminates the typical flatness we see in less sophisticated smokey-eye looks.
Eyeliner and Eyelashes:
The Precision Eyeliner in Noir (but of course!), is used all long the lashline, inside the upper and lower water-lines of the eye, and under the lower lashes, as well as gently winged in the outer corner to further the illusion of fanned out eye lashes. A generous coat of LMDB Mascara in "Midnight" was used on both top and bottom lashes. Before this dried, individual false lashes were applied also to the top and bottom lashes. To complete the look, an additional coat of "Midnight" Mascara was applied again to maximize the appearance of velvety, fanned out eye lashes.
A severely dark eye brow is not modern nor flattering, so even though Georgina is a brunette, I always use the LMDB "Natural Blonde" Eyebrow Pencil on her. I like the perfection of a finely shaped eyebrow, but in a softer tone.
Cheek Color and Bronzer:
On the apple of the cheeks, I used a combination of two Blush Creme Tints, "Poppy" and "Mystique". Both are pink, but one is more coral, and the other more blue. The contrast of the hues provided dimension.
Also, for contour and glow, I used the LMDB "Sunkissed" Bronzing Powder along the cheek bones, hair line, frontal lobes, nose, and jaw, to further enhance Georgina's striking profile.
Application Hint: The LMDB Kabuki Brush is the fasted and softest contour tool in the West! The shape and gentle texture of the bristles are able to deposit the deep pigments of the bronzers in an automatically diffused manner, allowing the depth of the contour to disburse seamlessly on the skin with minimal blending.
Because of the intensity of the eyes, I decided to go with more feminine, Springtime lip color. The look is actually four blended shades from the Le Metier de Beaute, Spring Collection, "Aurora" Lip Kaleidoscope. To perfect the lip, I use the rose-mauve Lip Liner, "Rouge".
I prefer to use concealer only at the end. The formula of the "Peau Vierge Correcteur", is designed to glide on top of finished makeup to amplify coverage where needed. On Georgina, I placed two tiny dots of correcteur in shade "Medium" just beneath the eyes to provide illumination.